Travels with the B Team; Breckenridge, Baja and Beyond

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Mistakes will be made… December 26, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — sperberc @ 4:36 pm

First off, I must give full credit to my sister Teeter for coining the phrase, “Mistakes will be made” as a way to wrap up and store away the fact that while traveling, veganism and vegetarianism can and will be compromised, and it’s just not the end of the world. I like its pat dismissal of whining and obsession about said mistake, the total lack of blame, and the breezy acceptance of this fact of traveling. I have watched Teeter, long-time committed vegan warrior, shake off carnivorous infractions abroad with the easy toss of this phrase. And don’t let this lead you to underestimate her convictions; this is just a coping mechanism in uncontrolable times and places. Inspired by her, I have adopted both thewording and attitude. Hence, mistakes have been made.

Please know, and never forget, that in Spanish, “pasta” does not mean noodles. Closest I have come to figuring it is “tiles.” We do our weekly shopping at a fresh greenmarket- it’s pretty heavenly. Piles of fruits and vegetables, ripe and redolent, and our weekly bill for this bounty runs about sixteen bucks.  I shit you not. Today we realized it was the US equivalent of paying for our avocados and getting the rest for free. Whole pineapples, papayas, sweet potatoes, limes, bananas, fresh cut herbs, again… an embarrassment of riches.  The space itself is gorgeous; an old brick building with 25 foot ceilings and giant open windows. It does not trigger my allergy to places without charm. Both gringos and locals shop there and it’s a social outing as well as a grocery mission. Have I mentioned Todos makes Breck look like Mega City One? I digress…  They also stock some dried goods; oats and other grains, rice and beans, etc.  And please note, nothing in this store is of animal origin. OR SO I THOUGHT. I have been feeling fairly confident with the ol’ Espanol, getting by, complements from our teacher on my pronunciation, conversations with native speakers, you know the drill. And while most of my Spanish World happens in the present tense, and has for years, I have even been working on conjugating verbs in other tenses. This is a triumph.  So put these two facts together; confident with the Spanish, and in a temple to the goods of the harvest, I purchase “Pasta de Ruida” -little red wheels of fresh “pasta”, yum.  Looked weird when it hit the water. Really weird. And should have know something was up when I poured out the spent, extra thick water (which drains into one of the coconut palms) and Lou went crazy trying to dig under the mulch to drink it. And it smelled a little weird, and on and on, I made excuses about this fresh pasta. After all, with all the fresh basil and tomatoes and oil and salt I mixed in with it, it really did look lovely. I shared my trepidation with Josh, and we tentatively took a few bites. Then we stopped. The next day I went back to the store and asked. Raw Chicarones. Meant to be deep fried in oil so you can have the very freshest fried pork skins available.  Not good boiled. And not veg. Mistakes will be made.

I wondered if I would be as forgiving as Josh was; after all , I had served him boiled pork skins for dinner. I didn’t have to wait long to find out how I would bear being served an animal surprise. Two days later Josh made oatmeal. We mix it with lots of fresh fruit and local raw honey- divine. Mine seemed to have extra black flakes in it.

“Josh, I think there are bugs in the oatmeal.”

“Nope, definitely not. Those are banana seeds.”

“Are you sure? These seeds seem to have legs.”

“Positive.”

( At this point I hear Paul Sperber clearly in my head: Only a fool is positive. I take one of the seeds and rinse it, bring it back to the table as evidence.)

“Josh, this seed has legs and is segmented.”

“Not bugs, seeds. Swear.”

“Hmmm.”

I’d stopped eating anyway, and walked over to the kitchen to retrieve the bag of oatmeal. The one that was riddled with holes and crawling with “banana seeds.” Presented with the evidence, Josh agreed that there maybe were bugs in the oatmeal and then finished his. He is my perfect companion. Best travelling partner in the world. I wish you all a  Josh in your life. Just not as your chef.

Other mistake include cuting my long neglected bangs in a windstorm, using the truck sideview mirror for alignment. Reminiscent of Miss Lippy. Rent Billy Madison and fast forward to the kindergardenteacher. On the good side, I should not have to tend to said hair again for some time. And if “distance makes the heart grow fonder” is true, then my eyebrows will welcome my bangs back with a huge party when they meet again.

And in dog news, Mini has found her real name. Like other pop culture figures before her, the trip to her motherland teased out her true name. When we first met Mini, we tried many other names and none stuck but Mini. It’s uncreative and not funny, but it just stuck. I thought maybe it the way the spirit of Minnie Roby, who moved in to our house in 1865 and proceeded to have 17 or so children, making her voice heard again in Breck. Mini; whatever, it stuck. Teeter almost renounced her sisterhood when we didn’t choose “Andy Lex.” I understood, Mini was not really a worthy name. But dogs sort of name themselves it seems. And so Mini it was.  But here in Mexico, back with her people, we finally understand. WE were pronouncing it with an American accent. It must be said by a native Spanish speaker to be appreciated. And thus, I reintroduce you to our beloved….MEANY!

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And a very happy birthday to Terry Sperber!

 

FAQ December 22, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — sperberc @ 4:07 pm

So the pace of postings has slowed, and its going to be slower from here on out; the interent is not close by and we have lots of classes to attend- Josh has Aikido three times a week and we both have Spanish twice a week. And between that and the surfing and other demands (!)( Whale Watching! ) of life here, I can’t keep up. Poor me. I will be updating when I can, but every time I get to a connection, I spend about an hour just getting through emails, etc. ..We do have an Mexican cell phone and can be reached on that. Email if you need the number!

And now for the Frequently Asked Questions:

 

Mom, Dad and Teeter,

No dank nugs here, sorry to disappoint!

And it really is Basil.

The tent is incredibly comfortable. There is a mattress and 3 down comforters and a ridiculously luxe cashmere blanket that Bob Merrill (Mona’s Dad) carried back from Mongolia for us.

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We have an outdoor kitchen:

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And there is a palapa, and hammocks galore….

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Our road is for the birds:

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Running water comes from the tinacas on the roof. Water comes to the property once a week. We use about 1/20th of the water in a big week.

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You can see the ocean from the shower, but not in this photo:

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We even have an indoor toilet!

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I hadn’t finished cleaning it in this photo, and I know it doesn’t look it’s greatest, but as I am sure you can imagine I don’t have a large selection of photos of the throne. And did I mention it flushes, with water, and has walls and roof? 5 frikken stars as far as I am concerned.

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Even better than I described, right, Teeter?

 

It’s an embarrassment of riches, actually. But still, I am filled with awful GREED- I want MORE and MORE, everyday, of the….Whales! Ballenas Gris, the Orcas, all of them, I can’t get enough. I know I should be content with all we have been graced, but every day, with every sighting, I JUST WANT MORE. Yesterday there were 4 or 5 pods of Orcas- which aren’t even supposed to be here, right in front of our place. And the Grey Whales- The Ballenas Gris- I get the damn chills. Mini barks at them from the beach, because of course, she thinks she can take on the largest mammal to ever have lived on this Earth.

And other influences, as I am wrapping this up- Kerouac, of course, and Ed Abbey and I thought of a bunch of others on the beach the other day that would strike just the right balance of brainy, independent and not too loony, but I promptly forgot them all…must have been the whales. Or the basil.

And please remember, any and all errors have been added by the automatic error generator after I sign off.

Hasta Luego!

 

Our morning walk to the beach. December 16, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — sperberc @ 7:52 pm

From our “house” to the beach:

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Some of us are here because we aren’t all there…. December 13, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — sperberc @ 3:51 pm

The road to our compound:

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There is a sign up in Todos Santos that says, “Carlos Carlos de Carlos- Real fake Mexican Art.” it hangs above a building that I have never seen open and is written freehand and covered with glitter. I think about how hard Teeter and I would laugh at it if she were here with me. I love it; Carlos Carlos de Carlos has become shorthand for all bad art.

And one more of Josh loving the freedom:

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And this basil field is also on the road to the compound. The smell is so strong you can’t help but crave fresh basil every time you go past.

And so it doesn’t seem too hearts and rainbows, here is lovely shot of a little skin issue I developed a few days ago. A little salt water and sand did the trick, it’s just red memory now.

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And Momma, I’m sorry I suggested that Sis Aim prepare and serve a fake Christmas dinner of tofu pups in a blanket with peanut butter and burned casserole.  Just my twisted sense of humor. And you are so easy to read and it really would have been very funny, watching your cute face sort of twist up and try to figure out what was going on and who was responsible…I hope you have a lovely dinner and time together and we will miss you. Save us the leftovers. The real ones, not the fake ones.

 

December 11, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — sperberc @ 6:30 pm
50 cents!

50 cents!

50 cents worth of basil. Heaven.

 

Loving it. December 9, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — sperberc @ 4:02 pm

I am loving all the comments so much- thanks for the feedback and keep ‘em coming. It’s nice to know you are out there!

We brought our little moto down here…It’s a 1970 Honda CT90- we are almost the same age; I feel an affinity. She is cranky whereas I am not, but I am working on our relationship. Today I took her around Pescadero looking for fresh tortillas; from the reaction on the street, I might guess I was the first gringa to ever ride a motorcycle through Pescadero.  I think of the passage from “A Tree Grows in Brooklyn” when the grandmother warns the main character to enjoy the catcalls when she is young, because she’ll miss them when she is old and they stop. All my feminist instincts rally against it, but it sort of makes me smile and I’m certainly not here to change an entire culture. At least not today:)

So here is the beast of a moto, and Josh is modeling his very fashionable matching glasses that make him so happy:

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I feel like I missed so much information I’d like to share from the long lapse on the way down that I’ll never catch up.  We met a guy who has been camping under the same tree for 22 winters; he is doing an audit of the entire ecosystem in his little cove in  Conception Bay. We should all love something as much as he loves that little section of the world. He walked the beach three times a day while we were there, picking up pieces of micro-trash. He said he had been working on it for the last month; he celebrated Obama’s victory alone on that beach and has been cleaning ever since…

There are giant buzzards here in Baja. We first started seeing them through the massive desert down the spine of the peninsula and there are a bunch that live in our neighborhood. I tried and failed to get a photo of them; they sit on top of the giant cordon cactus, ominous and regal. I’ll try again today.

I have been thinking a ton about the influences that lead us to the places we go. The majority of my influences are books; Poppa taught me to love the written word almost before he taught me to love chocolate. The Lorax, Ranger Rick Magazine…big moments for my young mind. And in High School I would sit in the library and read early Outside Magazines, and dream of all the places advertised in the back, the little postage stamp sized ads promising worlds of bright colors, exotic peoples, strange flavors, huge mountains and bright blue seas. Hot damn! I had to get there. Not that I didn’t love every moment of football-worshipping high school… And I embarrassed by how much sway Richard Bach has had over me; although I suspect that I love his work because he confirms how I feel, what I believe, and I like the confirmation. Really, if you haven’t read Illusions, how can you haul yourself out of bed in the morning? And there must be something to Jonathan Livingston Seagull for the book to have  been banned in entire countries. Juan Gaviaota is now legal in Guatemala, but this was not always the case.

Not only are Mini and Lou right in the swing of things- Josh loves every minute of the slight chaos that is Mexico. Want to build a fire in the yard? Have at it. Hell, throw some gasolina on there so it really goes!  Want to ride the moto on the wrong side of the road, or in the sand on the shoulder? No one is going to stop you. His little slightly anarchic heart beats strongly under the Baja sun….

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And I am pretty happy, too.

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La Cucaracha…. December 7, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — sperberc @ 4:31 pm
the rig!

the rig!

In Heber, we completed the build of the rig. Can a girl love a truck? Maybe… Without Pash we would have been in world of hurt. Plus he gave Josh his favorite new sunglasses that match the moto. ..and Pash, we pinched a varmin sticker.

That’s my new office…

And the new condo with the best view…

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And we had Thanksgiving dinner on the way down, along the Colorado river outside of Needles. Butternut squash and avocados on tortillas. It seemed appropriate.

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This campsite on Conception Bay was so amazing we stayed for an extra day.

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And our new compound, after some love:

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So now that we are “settled” in Pescadero for the time being, and we’ve done the major work to get the place comfortable, and I’ve found the internet ( happy reunion) I will be doing a better job of updating. Sorry for the lapse. I would have gladly traded updating for chasing cockroaches with a broom and bleach water!

 

If you are not living on the edge, you’re taking up too much space*… December 3, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — sperberc @ 2:22 pm

* as seen on a homemade bumper sticker in St George, Utah. I couldn’t help but to edit the “your” to  “you’re”, perhaps depriving you from the full power of the message.

So, long time, no post. Not a lot of internet out there in the desert through central Baja. We made it to Todos Santos and El Pescadero last night in time for another spectacular sunset.  We had some amazing camping spots on the way down…in San Quitin, Baja Norte, there were so many dolphins I lost count.  We met a guy in Baja Sur who has been camping under the same tree for the entire winter for the last 22 years. It is sunny and warm. Life is good and so far populated with interesting characters who don’t seem too demented or damaged. Bonus!

We have a lot of work to do to get Tony and Philip’s gorgeous property back up to her potential- and I will have photos of the property next post. We are so grateful and feel so lucky to have such a special place to stay. Today we came into Todos Santos to get the power reconnected and Josh is going to McGuyver the water this afternoon. We should we up and running in a few days!  Listening to the massive crashing of the waves from the tent last night was exhilarating. Truly, I can’t think of a better word.  And I can’t recommend a roof top tent enough.  The penthouse!

The photo essay of the last week; I am a little burnt from the drive, so I’ll let the photos do most of the work for now.

Or not…the connection is not letting me upload; I’ll try again tomorrow!

 

 
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